Beyond the summit: A transformative hiking experience on the wonderland trail

I lay awake in bed, gazing into the abyss of my stark white ceiling. It’s 6am, and I can’t help but wonder: why am I not outside? Why are these walls not an enclave of heavenly foliage? The silence of my room is ringing in my ears, and I yearn for it to be broken by morning songbirds and the gentle caress of the wind through the trees. Their absence manifests as a heavy ache in my belly, a poignant reminder of my life on trail. “Take me back, ” I plead in the recess of my mind. 

I quickly get dressed, make a cup of coffee and get outside. The sound of a car rushes by and I wince, wanting to cover my ears. I don’t remember my quaint neighborhood being so loud. I set off at a rapid clip, each stride a quest for the stillness that has eluded me. I’m looking for trees. A disc golf course serves as a temporary escape, providing insulation from the chaos. 

I wander along the trails, but the paths are too manicured. I venture off the beaten track, pushing aside damp bushes as I make my way deeper. Cobwebs and twigs decorate my silhouette as I find a small, earthy patch, no larger than my footprint. The ground is wet and uneven. I sit down and exhale a deep sign of relief. This is what I needed.

I have just returned from an experience that will shape my being in the very best ways. A bucket list backpacking adventure of a lifetime- The Wonderland Trail. This continuous and rugged path circumnavigates Mt. Rainier in Washington State, a mountain that never ceases to astound me with her towering presence.

Mt Rainier has the highest volcanic peak in the contiguous U.S., which makes it look as if she’s trying to erupt to the stars.

She is a force of nature, framed by 28 glaciers and cloaked in over 800 feet of snow annually, making her one of the snowiest places on earth.

The very existence of this trail is a gift, and the privilege to tread upon it is a miracle I will hold dear for a lifetime. This dynamic mountain has a short season, and access is limited to preserve her pristine beauty. Permits are a precious commodity, with over 10,000 applicants for the early access lottery and less than 250 hikers fortunate to complete the trail annually. This year, my partner and I were two of them. 

The journey was arduous, with a common trail saying, “if you’re not going up, you’re going down,” and it held true. In almost 100 miles, close to none of it was flat. If you look at a map of the profile, it is precipitous climb followed by sharp descent, straight into another climb. On a normal day, one of these ascents would be a notable feat in itself, but the fact that you had to rinse and repeat all day long, was a battle of endurance. The mountain demanded effort, but it always rewarded you, and I couldn’t have loved it more. This was me in my element. 

The Wonderland Trail offers diverse terrain,

from the lush, mossy Pacific Northwest rainforest, where mountain lions remain unseen but ever-present, songbirds have much to say and water is plentiful from glacier run off rivers and creeks. 

To Sub-alpine,

where fir and mountain hemlock trees fight to survive in the tough conditions of the higher altitude and yet idyllic meadows adorned with wildflowers come to life in rich profusion. So many black bears savoring the last of the wild blueberries. 

To true alpine,

what I always crave. Above the tree line unveils a humbling dose of vastness and other worldly terrain. Intricate rocky faces, cascading glaciers, turquoise lakes, and the graceful movement of mountain goats and sunbathing marmots. The expanse looks like the map in a fantasy novel come to life. "Where are the dragons?” I ask. 

The days on trail were long- often 10 hours of climbing and descending rocky peaks. Breaks were numbered, reserved for water filtration, calorie replenishment, and occasional cold plunges. We’d reach our campsites in the early evening, with enough time to set up, make dinner, and occasionally stretch out our grateful bodies before slipping into our tent for a long restorative sleep. 7pm became the new midnight, an indulging rhythm we found comfort in. 

One night, we tucked in at 5:30, after a scheduled shorter day on trail and the beginning feelings of fighting back sickness. We embraced the rest our bodies craved, and it felt so good to give it to them. Each night going to bed, we wondered how we would manage the next day, only to wake up in the early light, with a thirst for more adventure. The first movements of every day on trail came with a flooding of alignment. This is what our bodies were designed to do, and they were now screaming: “thank you for giving us what we’ve been asking for! It’s about time!”

Beyond the physical experience of The Wonderland Trail, my inner world underwent a substantial transformation as well. The trail shielded me from the outside world, with minimal human contact and zero cell service. Intentionally, I brought no external distractions- no books, journals, or pre-downloaded podcasts. I sought discomfort, inviting stillness and addressing boredom with presence. 

The first day on trail, which offered lower mileage, allowed us ample time to “just be.” There were moments of uncertainty and a tinge of “what now?” after setting up camp, but those fleeting feelings were quickly replaced by deep reverence for the environment. I cherished the privilege of simply sitting amidst the beauty of nature, pondering the intricacies of the foliage. To be fair, I did also engaged in a two-hour yoga practice that day, but it felt like an extension of the inward meditative journey I sought. 

It astonished me how effortlessly I disconnected from the outside world. In our hyper-stimulated lives, I often rely on various crutches, such as scrolling through my phone during wait times or engaging in some form of stimulation while walking or eating.

While these habits aren’t inherently negative, it’s important to not become overly reliant on them. To sit in stillness and truly absorb one’s surroundings in a waiting room, to embrace a walk as an opportunity for presence or self-reflection, and to have a meal in silence, appreciating the nourishment it provides- these experiences reveal aspects of life often overlooked. 

Apart from a few fleeting moments of mild discomfort regarding the absence of external stimuli on the first day, I was pleasantly surprised to find that I never felt bored or lacking. Having a companion to share the journey with offered connection and conversation, but I also relished the conversations within my own mind and the ones I held with the land. As we neared the end of our adventure, my body yearned for the comforts of home, but mentally and emotionally, I felt entirely unprepared to rejoin the outside world. As we departed from the trailhead, my phone erupted with notifications from the world I had temporarily left behind. I couldn’t bring myself to look. I wasn’t ready to reemerge. While driving home, even the music on the radio felt overly stimulating. Instead, I chose to simply sit with my thoughts and watch the world fly by at breakneck speed. 

As I sat in the car, leaving The Wonderland Trail behind, I contemplated the profound impact of this journey.

I carried not just the memories of rugged adventure but a profound lesson in the power of inner stillness.

The trail had become a portal to a deeper understanding of myself and the world, revealing that the most significant adventures aren’t just in grand landscapes, but in quiet moments where we meet ourselves and the world with openness.

As I reentered society, I carried with me a newfound appreciation for simplicity and presence. It was a reminder to unplug from the chaos, to reconnect with nature and simplicity, and to find the extraordinary in the ordinary moments of life.